Can an eatery based on European peasant food make a go of it in Bangkok, Thailand?
In a city of aspiring glitz and glamour, intuition told us “no.” Seriously, think about
it – does anything epitomize lo-so quite as effectively as characterizing your menu as “peasant cuisine?” But Red PInn, a modest little restaurant close to the intersection of Silom and Mahesak Roads, serves up delicious and applaudable food despite attracting peasant sized crowds.
As you approach Red PInn from Mahesak, this restaurant and guesthouse makes clear from its bright red and green color scheme and arch windows rimmed by bricks that it is not another Thai-European fusion experiment. As you enter, perhaps in an homage to 19th century European peasant pubs, it is dark and quiet in addition to uncrowded.
And that’s a shame, as Red PInn serves cracking food at great prices with many dishes you won’t find anywhere else in Bangkok. The way the rolls of cured salmon, beetroot, garlic and walnut (200 baht) left a salty, delicious aftertaste remains fresh in our memory upon writing this piece.
We suppose most of the dishes might be called Northern European, and there is a prevalence of potatoes, beets, mushrooms, salmon and herring on the menu. The rabbit stew with couscous (320 baht) was marvelous, but who knew rabbits had that many bones, which invariably begs the Bangkok question, “What was that…?”
You could order standards like caprese salad (140 baht), but you came here to live like a peasant, not a ponce. Red PInn even serves breakfast. Would you say no to Latvian-style thin stuffed pancakes (160 baht) served with a choice of sour cream and mushroom, sweet homemade cottage cheese or pesto potato and bacon fillings? KohSpot wouldn’t either.
This place also has something called pilzrouladen (160 baht) that are mushroom rolls with chicken. Any peasant restaurant worth its salt will have a tasty potato salad (140 baht), and while KohSpot applauds the dill horseradish mustard mayonnaise, the carrots were absent and the diced pickles were like tiny salt bombs.
Of course, goulash (220 baht) and Siberian dumplings (150 baht) are present as well. No word on whether the filling for the dumplings is tears.
With generous portions and decent prices, KohSpot can’t figure out why Red PInn isn’t more popular unless people haven’t heard of it or they don’t want to eat in a dungeon. In any event, this was one of the most surprisingly good restaurants in Bangkok and would be well worth a visit. Lets hope this place stays in business.
Red PInn
Location: 120/20-21 2 Soi Pramote 3, Mahesak Road. This is a little alley just off Mahesak and there is a large sign at the bak soi. If you are driving you need to park at the Tops at Silom Soi 28 as there is absolutely no street parking.
Mass transit: 10-15 minute walk from BTS Surasak
Hours: 10 am-11 pm or so
Phone: 02-235-8041
Web: www.redpinn.com
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